Reducing heat by adjusting the lid
Having the lid closed or open does not impact the airflow of your MacBook Pro (MBP). Ambient air is never in short supply and the "exhaust" (where the hot air picked up by the blade fan(s) are expelled) is located at the back of the unit (the black stripe on the newer models and the grey stripe on the first generation machines).
Some claim that keeping the lid open allows the chassis to cool down, but these claims have never had any real data behind them (simply anecdotal evidence and unsubstantiated rumour). Personally, I have a 2006 MBP that was eventually relegated to being a desktop. I ran the system for well over a year with the clamshell open, and then closed, and saw no different in CPU/CPU temps (nor any variability in the other heat sensors) as a result. Moreover, the newer models have far more efficient blade fans and would suffer even less from the effects of heat (additionally, the new Intel chipsets run cooler than their predecessors). You can conduct your own testing of course. I had replaced the heat sink, re-applied a sane amount of Arctic Silver thermal paste, and used Lobotomo Fan Control daemon to monitor my system's temperature.
Disabling the internal display, properly
There are two ways to connect a secondary display to your notebook without enabling the default screen (note that this does not mean dimming it, but rather turning it off).
- The first is to connect the display with the lid closed when the machine is powered down. Once the external display is connected, turn the machine on—it will detect the secondary display while leaving the internal one turned off. This will alleviate the issues you have with "dragging things off the screen" as the system will constrain your desktop to the one, active monitor.
- The second is to connect the secondary display when your system is awake and active, and the clamshell open. Make sure the notebook is plugged in. Once you connect the secondary monitor, the system will recognize it. Once it does, close the lid on your notebook. The device will be put to sleep. Once that happens, move your mouse, or hit a key on your keyboard to wake it. Once it wakens, it will enable the secondary display, but not the internal one.
Additionally, you may set the attribute to leave the system in the sleep state even if the clamshell is opened. You can do this using pmset, a local utility found on OS X that actually handles all your power settings. You can accomplish this with the following command:
sudo pmset -a lidwake 0
The -a, -b, -c, -u flags determine whether the settings apply to battery ( -b ), charger (wall power) ( -c ), UPS ( -u ) or all ( -a ).
To reverse the command, set the 0 to a 1. These settings are persistent, in that, they do not need to be re-applied every time the machine's power is cycled and are saved to the file: /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/com.apple.PowerManagement.plist
According to Apple Support, the clamshell mode (lid closed) requires:
- Power adapter
- External keyboard, mouse, or trackpad
- External display
You meet all three criteria. The support article goes on to provide steps for both wired and bluetooth keyboard & mouse combos:
If you are using a wired keyboard and mouse:
- Make sure the computer is plugged in to an outlet using the AC power adapter.
- Connect a USB keyboard and mouse to your computer.
- With the computer turned on connect the Apple portable (using the appropriate Apple adapter if necessary) to the appropriate port on the
external display or projector and turn the display or projector on.
- After your computer's Desktop appears on the external display, close the computer's lid.
- When you close the lid:
- In OS X Lion, the external display will change to a blue screen, then will show your desktop.
- In Mac OS X v10.6.8 and earlier, wake the computer up by clicking the mouse button or by pressing a key on your external keyboard. You
should now be able to use your Apple portable as you normally would,
with a USB keyboard and mouse.
Perhaps you could try opening and closing the lid again.
Best Answer
I had the same problem. My external monitor doesn't support HDR, so PaulVO's method didn't work for me.
As Nimesh suggested, I unchecked the "True Tone" for my Mac retina display. I immediately saw my Mac display had the same blue tint. Then I was able to calibrate both the color of my Retina display and external monitor. Somewhere between D50 and D65 works best as qrius suggested.
Thank you all for the inputs!