You could buy an absolutely identical drive and swap the circuit board.
However the easiest solution is to toss it in the bin, buy a new drive and restore your important data from your backup.
You say this:
I’ve poked around enough to know that basically there’s two logical
parts to these things, the controller hardware and then the actual
storage itself. Is it possible to separate the storage and connect it
to another controller or some other type of hardware that can read it?
In general, all external drives are basically internal drives placed in “bridging” enclosures that allow the internet drive interface—whether that be PATA/IDE, SATA or even SCSI—to bridge to a more commonly used external interface such as USB, FireWire or eSATA.
So you can mostly likely open up the enclosure, pull out the physical drive—where all your data is actually stored—and just mount it via another bridging device. The good news is devices like that are fairly cheap.
You don’t say how you are attempting to connect the drive to your system; I will assume USB. So for example, let’s say the drive is a SATA (Serial ATA) drive with a SATA interface. You could probably just buy any cheap SATA enclosure, stick it in and away you go. For example, I really like these low cost SATA to USB enclosures you can score at Other World Computing for $9.00. Pop the drive out of the busted enclosure, stick it in there, power it up, hook it up to a PC and away you go.
But if this drive has an older PATA/IDE (Parallel ATA) it might be harder to find a cheap enclosure for PATA connections. In that case I would recommend getting something like this universal drive adapter which allows one to hook up a PATA/IDE, SATA or even eSATA drive to a USB equipped PC. No special drivers are needed; just plug the drive into the adapter as well as power, plug the USB cable into the computer and it should mount as expected.
But then you say this:
If the storage does not physically look damaged is it likely that the
data is still intact?
Hopefully, the answer is yes. The reality is most external drives that “die” just have their enclosure and/or bridging circuitry damaged; the drive itself should be fine.
For example, I once found a RAIDed FireWire drive discarded on the street that would not mount via the FireWire connector. Opened up the case, found two 500GB PATA drives in there. Hooked one up that was dead as a doornail. Hooked the other one up and it mounted fine! Turns out it was a drive filled with wedding photos and videos that I was able to return to the original owners who had pretty much given up on the drive for good.
Which all means your data recovery drill down list should be:
- Remove the drive from the enclosure.
- Figure out what interface it uses internally and get an enclosure or adapter that will allow you to mount it.
- Cross your fingers and hope for the best!
- If that all went well, pull all of the data off of that drive to a new drive.
- Once the data has been copied, consider that old drive history; don’t use it for data backup or anything.
- If none of that worked, well your next best bet is a data recovery service.
But option 6 is really the last ditch effort. I’d say 8 times out of 10, just pulling the old drive out and connecting to it via a new enclosure or data cable will let you recover data off of the device.
Best Answer
Did you plug in the drive's power connector while the host PC was on? If so, that's not to be encouraged anyway.
The spark might just have been due to the drive startup current punching through some grime on the connector - especially if you were plugging the drive with the power on.
If, however, the spark occurred when you switched on the power then that's another thing - although I have seen this occur when a drive (Molex) power connector has been attached the wrong way round - it's surprisingly easy to do this with some of the 'softer' plastic plugs - and unfortunately this usually kills the drive. I managed to do this a few weeks back with a SATA-Molex power adaptor - note the fried chip in the pic:
The only way to find out if anything's damaged is to fire up the drive, having checked the power connector orientation and looked for visual damage (and burnt smells/fried chips) on the drive circuit board first.