I'm writing this on a 2560x1600 Dual Link DVI monitor connected to a computer using HDMI 1.4.
Stop searching for HDMI to DVI-DL adapters. All adapters that you'll find are passive single-link adapters, even though they may be advertised as dual-link.
Although a HDMI 1.4 to Dual Link DVI adapter is possible to implement using an Analog Devices ADV7619 297 MHz HDMI 1.4 receiver that does automatically split high pixel clock links into odd and even pixels and two ADV7513 165 MHz HDMI 1.4 transmitters to transmit the pixels over two separate links, no manufacturer is making such a device.
You need a device that generates Dual Link DVI output from a single link input. And the only one that's widely available is a DisplayPort to Dual Link DVI adapter, sold under several different brands.
With that, we've reduced the problem to converting HDMI 1.4 to DisplayPort 1.1. There were no solutions for this until recently, when the STMicroelectronics chip STDP2600 became available. Several brands sell adapters based on this chip. In case your monitor takes a DP input at full resolution, using only this adapter is enough - no need to convert to DVI-DL.
Connecting those two together should provide a HDMI 1.4 to Dual-Link-DVI solution. However, the Linux Radeon driver (xf86-video-ati) was still not happy with it, and ignored the 2560x1600 videomode in the list of valid modes in EDID. The reason was that the Linux Radeon driver would enable pixel clocks above 165 MHz only in case a monitor has a HDMI Vendor Specific Data Block in the Consumer Electronic Association extended block of EDID.
Obviously, a pure DVI monitor will not have a HDMI VSDB in CEA EB of EDID. I solved that by adding a S/PDIF audio de-embbedder for HDMI that I got off eBay into the chain that adds the CEA EB to add audio descriptors to EDID. A proper solution would be to provide a modified EDID file directly to the driver.
This works for Linux, on Windows you may not need the EDID change, or you may need a more extensive one. I don't have a Windows machine to test.
String all three together, make sure all are powered up via their USB connectors and voilà, beautiful full resolution 2560x1600 picture at 60 Hz refresh rate on my Dual Link DVI monitor.
http://www.cultofmac.com/176329/turn-off-internal-lcd-display-of-your-macbook-air-os-x-tips/
You can try these, Tip 1 has worked for me however you must close the lid during start-up/reboot before the logo appears. Once the login screen appears you can open the lid and the screen should be off. Can check with the brightness control buttons.
This is not an ideal solution as closing/opening the lid every time can be quite bothersome but it works (more info below). An option from Apple to turn this off with external monitors connected would be ideal.
Link: http://gizmodo.com/5938452/a-trick-to-make-using-an-external-monitor-with-your-macbook-way-better
Here is a terminal command thats fairly simple that will allow you to keep the lid open for adequate cooling but while using the external display only. I've been using this method with my Thunderbolt display and MacBook Air since the beta of Mountain Lion came out and it works perfect. Has all the same characteristics of good old clamshell mode. Be sure to keep this written down someplace in the off chance you need to re-install, do a PRAM reset, or just want to undo it.
To execute in Terminal:
sudo nvram boot-args="iog=0x0"
To undo in Terminal:
sudo nvram -d boot-args
Once you type it into terminal I believe you need to enter your
password. I then restart my machine. Now the TRICK is to either
restart your machine with the lid already closed (hit restart then
slam the lid!) OR turn the machine on for the first time (then quickly
slam the lid!) once you are past the login screen you can open the
lid.
ALSO: if the machine is asleep, and you simply forget and open the
lid, it will wake up both displays. So just remember to wake the
machine up with an external bluetooth mouse or keyboard.
Best Answer
So, I've finally received my MBP and the
Dual-link-DVI to Mini DisplayPortadapter (simply adapter from now on).The Korean monitor has been more than worth it, it works superbly absolutely great over the digital link.
The adapter doesn't work at all if you don't plug the USB connector in also. If you plug it in, connect the display, then remove the USB plug, it will stop working instantly. So apparently that USB plug is 100% needed.
I happened to have a
VGA to Mini DisplayPortadapter lying around, so I've connected a second external display on the second Thunderbolt port. Everything works fine, my MBP now has 3 displays. I plan to replace this with a HDMI cable, since the MBP also has a HDMI port, it should work.@Hennes commented on my question above, his answer has been very helpful.
Apparently the adapter is an active component, and it needs to be powered. It draws that power from the MBP's USB plug. To avoid losing a USB port on the MBP, the adapter provides another USB port on the other end, where you can connect whichever device was using the USB port. It seems that the adapter piggybacks on the USB port's power line, while just forwarding the others.
I wander if you could plug two of these adapters one into the other's USB port, and both in each thunderbolt port.
Anyway, the setup works great, but it's a LOT of wires to plug in.
If I were to just buy two of Apple's thunderbolt displays, I would only ever have one thunderbolt cable to connect, and the monitors would act as USB hubs too. But that's $2000 compared to $500.