Have you considered Xcode?
I know you said you don't like TextMate, but it's one that meet pretty much all your needs.
which is fast
TextMate
Really fast
Xcode
Not that fast but not Eclipse/Netbeans-slow
which does syntax highlighting
TextMate
Very complete and extensible
Xcode
Does syntax highlighting, it depends on your needs
were I can define own syntaxes (or there are many plugins e.g. for YAML),
TextMate
Very, very extensible
Xcode
Syntax extensions are possible
where the developers are active,
TextMate
Some say it's vaporware, yet very few other text editor can compete with its current features
Xcode
Apple development of this program is very active
which does not have the look & feeling of TextWrangler
TextMate
If you don't like the sliding bar, there's a plugin to replace it by a drawer
Xcode
Doesn't have a sliding bar
which can define projects (like Coda can)
TextMate / Xcode
Do projects
which includes a basic support for Git and/or SVN
TextMate
Support for Git/SVN/Mercurial (and probaby more) via built-in and added plugins
Xcode
SVN support for 3.x, added Git in Xcode 4
which supports a fast autocompletion
TextMate
Basic variable/function completion
very complete code completion via bundles
Xcode
Basic variable/function completion
MacOS X 10.6 compatible
TextMate
Some compatibility issue
Xcode
Fully compatible
You might want to take a look at Michael Tsai's iPhone text editor's comparison. It's not specifically for iPad, but summarizes (and he keeps it more or less updated). You have links to all the apps he mentions and a nice formatted table with the "features" each editor has or lacks.
He specifically added iPad support in the linked version of the entry:
I’ve added rows for tracking iPad
And of course, at the time of writing this…
WriteUp, still my preferred editor, syncs faster with Dropbox than before and now supports .taskpaper files.
Bear in mind that Michael updates the entry every now and then. I've linked to version six, but for the sake of this AskExchange entry, you should check if there aren't new ones. Use a google search like this. If you don't know what google is, you can try this other link. ;)
Best Answer
There is also Emacs where you can split a window horizontally:
vertically:
or in a more complicated fashion: